I would just like to say I really enjoyed seeing the TIG welds on the stainless parts in the background (Levers and brackets) as well as the craftsmanship evident on many of the parts. Also, well done if you understood a word of all my English waffling between the photos. Thanks for sitting through all of this and thanks to this forum for planting the idea in my head all that time ago. Hopefully it will work fine when put back together although I'm not expecting it to first time and I'm sure there will be brake fluid spilt over my new paint. I did half ass plumb it up before it was stripped for paint and it did work. The only fitting I could find was a stainless T piece so this also had to be modified to suit. Good, I'm using a hard line up the downtube into a 90 degree fitting which goes into a flexi down to the calliper. Then I made up a stainless bracket and mounted it on the downtube just above the M/C inlet fitting. I got back onto ebay and bought a diaphragm from a Triumph so that I could make up a reservoir to suit. Now the only ones I could find were cheap looking plastic and I had nowhere left to hide it as i'd already finished welding the tank up. Happy that the whole thing was working I moved on to the reservoir. I'm using shovelhead leavers and needed to machine up a pin to suit the leaver end. I searched a local classic bike restoration shop and found a cable off a Norton that could be made to fit easily enough. I had to shorten the M/C pushrod and add a clevis before this.
It's then that I realised the M/C and the reservoir are 2 separate parts! Perfect, I'll just make a new housing for the M/C and run a remote reservoir.Ĭonfused yet? Here's another photo of what I came up with. So, Back to the net to look for master cylinders again.Īfter a lot of failed searching and a few sleepless nights I thought I would just pull the original rear apart and make a new housing for all the internals. I tried to get it in between the downtubes in front of the engine which was the largest area option but it didn't work. All I had to do was try and hide that massive lump and get it to work from a cable. After a lot of searching I almost gave up until realising the rear master cylinder already on the bike ('89 Sportster) was the right size.
I did a bit more research and it looked as though I'd need a 5/8 master cylinder to operate the 4 pot calliper. So then I had to make the whole setup work. I swapped this out for a cheap Kawasaki 21" wheel and made a disc and calliper mount to suit the whole setup. The bike already had a good enough PM calliper although the front wheel was 19". This whole setup has cost me about £60-70 (yeah I'm British). Unfortunately I cant remember which thread it was or who started it but I thought I'd return here with some photos and some sort of description in case anyone else fancies a go.įirst thing you should know is I'm a massive cheapskate so if I don't have to buy parts I wont. Well, last year I bought my first Harley chopper project and really wanted to keep the front disc brake. A long time ago during another project I was searching the net for ideas on hiding master cylinders when I came across a thread from this site about remote mounting them.
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